The French have a term for the world that exists outside of Paris – en province. It’s sort of like that Newfoundland expression of “coming from away”.
From what I’m told, Parisians sometimes come across as snooty (Quoi? Parisians? Non!) when they ask if you’re from en province, as though whatever exists outside of Paris is automatically somehow lesser in stature or importance.
This idea of being someone en province is especially interesting to me when it comes to the world of fashion design. As far as I can tell from my short time here in Lyon, there certainly is fashion outside of le capitale!
And this being a fashion-y blog of sorts, it seems only appropriate for me to profile some of the great local designers and independent boutiques that I come across in my adopted city.
To start us off, I’d like to introduce you to Déborah Amsellem. Déborah is one busy lady. Not only is she a designer of handmade clothing, she also designs jewellery, works as a stylist, and is the mother of 2 young children to boot!
Déborah’s hard work and tenacity over the past two years is starting to pay off. In addition to some love from Le Progrès and presenting at the Who’s Next Paris 2012 forum, she was recently selected to be one of the featured designers in the Cercle des nouvelles marques de mode. The Cercle is a fantastic initiative of the local Rhône-Alpes government in partnership with the association of trades people in the fashion industry set up to assist emerging local artisans in growing their brands. The Cercle will work with Déborah to bring her designs outside of the Rhône region into different parts of France and even North America. Very cool!
I recently sat down with Déborah to preview her upcoming 2012 collection and ply her with questions about her experiences as a designer en province.
*side note – the Q&A has been translated by moi from French – patience SVP. Le français suivre.
Ah, Bon?: What are your primary sources of inspiration?
Déborah Amsellem: My inspiration comes from many places: my designs relate to the clothes I like to wear and the shapes in which I feel most comfortable without feeling “disguised” by clothing. I like to photograph houses, buildings and architecture in my travels which helps me to create a colour palette to use in future collections. I love when clothes have natural movement on the body when worn, so I put a lot of time into researching details like folds, creases, and pleating and how to apply them in the same garment using different materials (for example, using velvet for the matte side of the fabric and silk for the shiny side).
AB: Where do you find your fabrics? How are they chosen?
DA: When I’m developing a sample garment, I request several versions in different fabrics, so I know seeing the sample, which will have the most impact. I am always looking at the fabrics in my closet or at a trade show. Sometimes I will see a person on the street wearing a garment whose fabric inspires me instantly! It can be a bit like love at first sight.
AB: What served as inspiration for your latest collection?
DA: I went to Rome last year, and I wanted to develop tops with folds like the pleated skirts of the ancient Romans. I was inspired by their use of multiple pleats on the shoulders and at different places in a top, as in this photo:
AB: What is your favourite piece from the new collection to wear and why?
DA: My personal favourite is this top that has panels on the shoulders and ruffles on the front and back (see below). It’s worn with a necklace made of sterling silver and mother of pearl. The fabric is supple, and it’s elegant, while still being completely comfortable. I pair it with jeans that are bit roughed up to juxtapose the top and give a bit of movement to the silhouette.
AB: Who is your favourite designer right now, French or otherwise?
DA: The designers that I love the most are Philip Lim, Emma Cook, The Lover Label (Susian by Chong), D-Due, Milly New York and my favourite, Tory Burch.
AB: What blogs do you follow?
DA: I’m an avid follower of Pauline‘s blog, Garance Doré and Betty.
AB: What are some of the positives and negatives of being an independent designer in France but outside Paris? And what are your ultimate goals for your collection?
DA: Being from a region you do have to think about each part of the process more carefully (creation, marketing, media identity, communication, distribution) and really take action to get started. One positive aspect of living outside of Paris is the access to government initiatives like Le Cercle de Mode. My goal is to develop export agreements with retailers in North America and of course see my collection available in multi-brand designer stores and concept stores in France.
While her new collection hasn’t officially launched yet, here is a sneak peek at some of my favourite pieces…
The thing I like the most about Déborah’s work is the way she incorporates the jewellery into each piece. The necklaces can be worn at various lengths or separately. Having been a stylist for many years for the likes of Nathalie Chaize, Jean-Claude Trigon, and Rizal, Déborah has a great eye for silouhettes.
Thanks for introducing me to your work, Déborah! Bon Courage!
Déborah blogs about her life as a designer and woman about town (and Mum!) here and on the old FB. Keep an eye on her website for the full launch of the new collection.
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Français:
AB : Quelles sont les principales sources d’inspiration ?
DA : Mes sources d’inspirations viennent de plusieurs chemins : cela peut être en rapport avec les vêtements que j’aime porter (comme les blouses en soie) et/ou les formes dans lesquelles je me sens à l’aise sans me sentir « déguisée ». Je photographie les maisons, immeubles ou architecture lors de mes voyages ce qui me permet de garder en mémoire des couleurs que j’ai aimé et pourquoi pas, les mettre en collection la saison suivante. J’aime que les vêtements soient en mouvement sur le corps au porté, alors je recherche beaucoup de détails comme les plis, les fronces, les nervures, les applications à même le vêtement, les volants et les bi-matières. (comme associer du velours pour le côté mat du tissu et de la soie pour le côté brillant).
AB : Où obtiens-tu tes tissus ? Comment sont-ils choisis ?
DA : En général en élaborant un prototype, je demande plusieurs essais dans des tissus différents, ainsi je sais en voyant les prototypes, lequel sera le plus percutant. Je cherche les tissus de partout que ce soit dans ma garde-robe ou sur un salon professionnel, ou dans la rue sur une personne qui porte un vêtement et dont le tissu me semble à travailler de toute urgence ! c’est au coup de cœur !
AB : Qu’est-ce qui servait d’inspiration pour votre collection plus récente ?
DA : Je suis allé à Rome, et j’ai eu envie de développer des hauts avec des plis comme les jupes plissées des romains ou encore retrouver les fronces multiples sur les épaules et à différents endroits d’un haut (voir document ci-joint)
AB : Quel pièce est votre favori de porter et pourquoi ?
DA : Ma pièce favorite pour cet été est un top qui a des panneaux sur l’épaule et des volants devant et dos porté avec un sautoir en argent massif et nacre naturelle. Il est souple, raffiné, et vaporeux. J’aime le porter avec un jeans brut qui casse le côté « So Chic » , il donne du mouvement à la silhouette.
AB : Qui est ton designer favori, français et autre ?
DA : Les designers que je suis à la trace sont Philipp Lim, Emma Cook, The Lover Label (by Susien Chong), D-Due, Milly NewYork et surtout Tory Burch.
AB : Quels blogs suis-tu ?
DA : Je regarde souvent le blog de Pauline, le blog de Garance Doré et le blog de Betty. (ainsi que le tiens !)
AB : Quels sont les aspects positifs et les négatifs d’être un designer indépendant en France, mais à l’extérieur de Paris ? Et quels sont vos buts suprêmes pour votre collection ?
DA : Il n’y a pas vraiment de côté positif ou négatif : il faut réfléchir à chaque positionnement (création, marketing, identité presse, communication, distribution) et engager des actions pour arriver à les mettre en place ; aujourd’hui, tout ce passe par email ou par téléphone et bien entendu la finalité est de se rencontrer ! Je pense qu’un positif d’être en province est d’accéder au cercle des nouvelles marques de mode. Mon objectif est de développer les implantations à l’export et bien entendu en France dans les magasins créateurs multimarques et les concept stores.